OT: Russian bypass caps

[Elitopus1]

After seeing a few different posts about these I am curious about 3 in particular. The Russian FT-3, K10-75, and K12-75. They are listed from most to least expensive, with the K12-75 being less than a buck each.

So who has experience with all these and which would you recommend for a bypass cap? In a .1uf or .22uf size.

Thanks

[LowOhms]

After seeing a few different posts about these I am curious about 3 in particular. The Russian FT-3, K10-75, and K12-75. They are listed from most to least expensive, with the K12-75 being less than a buck each.

So who has experience with all these and which would you recommend for a bypass cap? In a .1uf or .22uf size.

Thanks

Hi.

A K75-10 has fantastic dynamic contrasting capabilities, in the middle-midrange, at the expense of being a little disturbingly dark-sounding.

It would be more suitable in larger values, I have used them as a 0.68 uF bypass, but, a 0.22 uF bypass may not be too small, depending upon your system. I don't think they are best used below 0.22 uF, in real small uF Values, versus other choices.

Now-a-days, after experimenting with Russkies, I use modern German-built industrial film caps for all my main capacitors, and for bypassing, as the technology employed today is state of the art, goes well beyond old Russian eBay choices, in my experience. Industrially priced, not audiophile priced. Out-does audiophile caps largely.

Have fun .

Jeff Medwin

[Elitopus1]

Hi.

A K75-10 has fantastic dynamic contrasting capabilities, in the middle-midrange, at the expense of being a little disturbingly dark-sounding.

It would be more suitable in larger values, I have used them as a 0.68 uF bypass, but, a 0.22 uF bypass may not be too small, depending upon your system. I don't think they are best used below 0.22 uF, in real small uF Values, versus other choices.

Now-a-days, after experimenting with Russkies, I use modern German-built industrial film caps for all my main capacitors, and for bypassing, as the technology employed today is state of the art, goes well beyond old Russian eBay choices, in my experience. Industrially priced, not audiophile priced. Out-does audiophile caps largely.

Have fun .

Jeff Medwin

So what would you recommend for a more modern cap? I am open to options as long as they are not too expensive. I can get K12-75 for 70 cents each or K10-75 for 2.30$ each. The FT-3 I was orginally looking at are around 5 bucks each if I buy a bunch

[SD-50]

I got a handful of Russian caps from an audio buddy and was so impressed with the increase in transperancy and dynamics bought more .22 caps from PartsConnexion to bypass all the main PIO caps in both my A7s and 604Ks XOs, no going back to Solen caps. My brother bought enough .22 for his Dynaudios and was blown away by the audio gains.
Ordered more last week for future projects.

[Elitopus1]

I got a handful of Russian caps from an audio buddy and was so impressed with the increase in transperancy and dynamics bought more .22 caps from PartsConnexion to bypass all the main PIO caps in both my A7s and 604Ks XOs, no going back to Solen caps. My brother bought enough .22 for his Dynaudios and was blown away by the audio gains.
Ordered more last week for future projects.

Very cool. I am wanting to try bypass caps on my A7's and 604g's. Probably on the 604's first.

So do you recommend the FT-3's you have on your Markwarts xovers or are there other Russian caps you use?

[BillWojo]

I wonder if the K42Y-2 caps I bought at 0.1uF will be large enough. Oh well, I'll give them a try when they get here. Anybody have any thoughts on cap sizes for bypassing on crossovers?

BillWojo

[SD-50]

Very cool. I am wanting to try bypass caps on my A7's and 604g's. Probably on the 604's first.

So do you recommend the FT-3's you have on your Markwarts xovers or are there other Russian caps you use?

Two different setups, the mancave with the A7s has an acoustically treated wall behind my chair, the bedroom has none beyond what my futon offers. The A7s have .22 and .68 on all the caps, the 604s have .68 on two caps of the four caps. Also they have different drivers, 802/515, 808/416, can't make a direct comparison, although the response of both setups has been greatly improved by the addition of the Russian Teflon caps.
PS Also wanted to add that the caps are a fantastic value for what they do, better caps out there but it will really cost you to surpass these caps.

[LowOhms]

So what would you recommend for a more modern cap? I am open to options as long as they are not too expensive. I can get K12-75 for 70 cents each or K10-75 for 2.30$ each. The FT-3 I was orginally looking at are around 5 bucks each if I buy a bunch

Welcome to 2017 !! You will have a HARD time, cost and performance wise, beating WIMA ( Germany ) caps. These are industrially priced, not audiophile priced. As a main film cap, in tube power supplies, I LOVE the WIMA DC LINK MKP4 series, preferably the ones with four leads, over the two lead ones.....four is audibly better.

To bypass the WIMA DC LINK< I would try the WIMA FKP1 caps, in small values. I usually will use MULTIPLE and progressively smaller values, down to 0.01 uF in my bypassing, usually start at 0.68 .

Since you and I have totally different wiring and amplification, I will let you decide what values to use, but frankly, it will be a hard-go, with out optimizing the amplification and the wiring. EXPERIMENT freely, with the German brands I have given you herein. Trust my suggestion Don, but use YOUR ears. Have FUN !!

BTW, NO CAP I HAVE EVER HEARD, equals the expensive DynamiCap 4.0 and 10.0 E caps, with modded lead outs. I HAVE / USE the 4.0 Es across every spot on my ALTEC A7-800 crossover, and I would NOT listen to ALTEC speakers without them in place, for one millisecond of my life..

Jeff LowOhms

[Elitopus1]

Welcome to 2017 !! You will have a HARD time, cost and performance wise, beating WIMA ( Germany ) caps. These are industrially priced, not audiophile priced. As a main film cap, in tube power supplies, I LOVE the WIMA DC LINK MKP4 series, preferably the ones with four leads, over the two lead ones.....four is audibly better.

To bypass the WIMA DC LINK< I would try the WIMA FKP1 caps, in small values. I usually will use MULTIPLE and progressively smaller values, down to 0.01 uF in my bypassing, usually start at 0.68 .

Since you and I have totally different wiring and amplification, I will let you decide what values to use, but frankly, it will be a hard-go, with out optimizing the amplification and the wiring. EXPERIMENT freely, with the German brands I have given you herein. Trust my suggestion Don, but use YOUR ears. Have FUN !!

BTW, NO CAP I HAVE EVER HEARD, equals the expensive DynamiCap 4.0 and 10.0 E caps, with modded lead outs. I HAVE / USE the 4.0 Es across every spot on my ALTEC A7-800 crossover, and I would NOT listen to ALTEC speakers without them in place, for one millisecond of my life..

Jeff LowOhms

Ok thanks for the suggestions.

I have a few of the WIMA MKP series. I'll have to see what number they are.

I checked out those MKP1 caps at Mouser. They have the .1uf and .22uf in different voltages up to 1600v. From 5-7 bucks each. I'll grab some of those on my next order from them.

[SD-50]

Ok thanks for the suggestions.

I have a few of the WIMA MKP series. I'll have to see what number they are.

I checked out those MKP1 caps at Mouser. They have the .1uf and .22uf in different voltages up to 1600v. From 5-7 bucks each. I'll grab some of those on my next order from them.

May just do the same, price is within reach and if they are as good as Jeff(LowOhms) states, then good value.